GOING BACK 450 YEARS AT KOTA TINGGI

GOING BACK 450 YEARS AT KOTA TINGGI
Story and pictures by Zalina Mohd Som

IT'S not an uncommon failing of visitors to Kota Tinggi to miss the rich legacy of the area while being distracted by the famous waterfalls, fruit farms and sandy beaches.

The untrained eye may spot some nondescript tombs with tombstones quaintly covered with yellow cloth, an old mosque and quiet kampung without knowing what they represent.

But given the right perspective from a knowledgeable guide, an exploration of Kota Tinggi's quite illustrious past will take the visitor back some 450 years, regaled with colourful tales and legends.

Interestingly, the relics found dotting the 72 km Sungai Johor has a lot to do with the river which branches off from the Sayong River before draining into the South China Sea at Tanjung Pengelih.

History has it that the river's natural environment – promontories and sheltered shores – made it ideal for fort fortifications and settlements.

It played a very important role for the Johor Sultanate, as the early seats of government and administration sprung up along the banks.

Upstream from Tanjung Pengelih, the first site is Kota Johor Lama at Teluk Sengat, about 27 km from Kota Tinggi town.

The fortress made of rocks and turf is said to be one of the best defensive forts built along Sungai Johor to stop the Portuguese after the fall of Malacca.

Though "tourists" are only taken to the hilltop fort which now appears as a plain well-maintained field surrounded by bunds, a walk around Kampung Johor will lead to more hidden bunds.

Kampung folk say the bunds cover 2.4 km through the rubber plantation surrounding the small kampung.

Also found here are two tombs in two different sites. One near the fort is unidentified while the other in the rubber estate belongs to the royal midwife.

Further upstream is Kampung Panchor which was made a ruling centre by Sultan Abdul Jalil Riayat Shah IV, the 11th Sultan of Johor, under the name Kota Panchor.

Besides the remains of the fort and still-hidden historical relics, the kampung which is surrounded by oil palm plantations takes pride in another two ancient tombs.

Drive through the plantation dirt road to reach an isolated mausoleum of Sultan Muzaffar Syah atop the hill in the middle of Bukit Seluyot. This too is located by the river.

The third Sultan of Johor was not alone, for buried in the same resting place was his sister Raja Fatimah and nephew Sultan Abdul Jalil.

Backtracking from the first Johor capital – Kota Johor Lama at the rivermouth – we now reach modern Kota Tinggi where more tombs are located.

One of the most significant is Makam Sultan Mahmud Mangkat Dijulang of the 10th Johor Sultan at Kampung Makam. He was ambushed and killed by his general, Laksamana Bentan, on his way to Friday prayers.

The killing was to avenge the death of the general's pregnant wife killed by the sultan over some jackfruits.

The tomb is housed in a beautiful complex with rich architecture with the tombs of other royal members in the compound of antique-looking Masjid Sultanah Rogaiyah and a huge burial ground.

In the vicinity of Kampung Makam, there are also Makam Tun Habab and Makam Tauhid. The latter has several tombs in its compound within stonewalls resembling the remnants of a building or palace. This site is believed to be the old Kota Tinggi.

Other important tombs are Makam Laksamana Bentan at Kampung Kelantan, Makam Siti Jalang at Kampung Tembioh and Makam 7 Sayong at Kampung Sayong Pinang.

The walk through Johor's past is therefore mostly a tomb tour of a short drive from the heart of Kota Tinggi.

Back to Kota Tinggi's more mundane offerings. The itinerary can start with its famous Bazar Kota or known locally as Bazar Kelantan for a round of heavy bargains.

Take another short drive to its prominent landmark – the Kota Tinggi waterfalls which boasts of scenic tumbling falls from Gunung Panti.

Besides being historically significant and noted for its nature and agro-tourism attractions, one of modern day Kota Tinggi crowd pullers is the Desaru Fruit Farm popular with visitors from Singapore, Taiwan and Japan, apart from locals.

Heading to the coast, make a stop at one of its beautiful stretches of beach – the swimmer-friendly Desaru or more scenic Pantai Balau.

Pantai Balau is also a site for a homestay programme offering the opportunity to sample fishing village life and learning more about the fishing industry at the Tanjung Balau Fishing Museum.

Teluk Ramunia, another coastal kampung, offers not only scenic coastal settings but also an educational tour at the Ostrich Show Farm Desaru.

The Kota Tinggi area is becoming an increasingly popular place to visit. What it has to offer more than meets the eye.



GETTING THERE

Kota Tinggi is the largest district of Johor at the southeastern end of the peninsula, requiring an hour's drive from Johor Baru. From the north, the easiest way is to take the Kulai exit of the North-South Expressway followed by a 90-minute drive to the historic town. The coastal road is a lot more scenic. There are reliable public transportation services from all major towns. There is a direct ferry service between the Tanah Merah ferry terminal in Singapore and Sebana Cove, about an hour from Kota Tinggi.

ACCOMMODATION
Kota Tinggi boasts of a wide choice of beach resorts along its long coastline – at Teluk Mahkota, Tanjung Balau, Desaru, Batu Layar, Teluk Punggai and Teluk Ramunia. Those who like to stay near the famous waterfalls can check into the Kota Tinggi Waterfall Resort. In town itself, there is quite a number of budget hotels scattered all over. Golfers also have a few choices, one of which is Sebana Cove. The all-in-one retreat has a marina, 18-hole course and resort. Guests can choose from 40 executive rooms, 20 suites and 24 two-bedroom apartments housed in two-storey blocks. The main clubhouse has a swimming pool, food and beverage outlets, gymnasium, sauna and tour desk. A five-minute drive away, the apartments have their own swimming and wading pools and children's playground. All rooms and apartments have air-conditioning, room safe, TV, mini bar, coffee/tea-making facilities and IDD phone. Services include laundry, resort shuttle, mail and postal, business centre and round-the-clock security. For reservations, call 07-8266688.